BEFORE YOU ADOPT from 74 Ranch Minis:
Socialization: should I socialize my puppy before all vaccinations are done?
Early and continuous socialization is extremely important. Some Aussies are reserved by nature so it must be introduced to many new people (all ages), situations, environments and activities We give you a 2 page checklist to be sure you expose them to all kinds of things. The first few months is the most important. Most times it only takes 1 exposure at a young age but if you wait until they are older it may take a lot of exposures to get them over the new experience/person. An obedience class is highly recommended from a positive reinforcement trainer (clicker training preferred). Take the puppy with you as often as possible. Take the puppy to your vet (if not fully vaccinated, you may not want to let him down but hold instead) just for a visit - no pokes or prods...
Ian Dunbar has helped the world decide it's smarter to get your puppy out for socialization than waiting for all immunizations to take effect. They need to see as many people, pets and places as possible in the first 4 months, starting at 8 weeks old. They will learn their environments and other animals are safe. If you wait the puppy may become fearful of new things. He may defend himself through growling, barking or even biting if he's afraid. Take proper precautions for their safety, however. Walk your puppy in neighborhoods where most dogs are vaccinated and stay away from parks, especially dog parks where other dogs are known to frequently visit.
Early and continuous socialization is extremely important. Some Aussies are reserved by nature so it must be introduced to many new people (all ages), situations, environments and activities We give you a 2 page checklist to be sure you expose them to all kinds of things. The first few months is the most important. Most times it only takes 1 exposure at a young age but if you wait until they are older it may take a lot of exposures to get them over the new experience/person. An obedience class is highly recommended from a positive reinforcement trainer (clicker training preferred). Take the puppy with you as often as possible. Take the puppy to your vet (if not fully vaccinated, you may not want to let him down but hold instead) just for a visit - no pokes or prods...
Ian Dunbar has helped the world decide it's smarter to get your puppy out for socialization than waiting for all immunizations to take effect. They need to see as many people, pets and places as possible in the first 4 months, starting at 8 weeks old. They will learn their environments and other animals are safe. If you wait the puppy may become fearful of new things. He may defend himself through growling, barking or even biting if he's afraid. Take proper precautions for their safety, however. Walk your puppy in neighborhoods where most dogs are vaccinated and stay away from parks, especially dog parks where other dogs are known to frequently visit.
HOW to purchase your puppy through 74 Ranch Mini Aussies/Mini Americans:
1) Read the info on our site - do your research, be sure a Mini Aussie/American is right for you and the timing is right for you (or near future)
2) Fill out our application on this site.
3) Visit with us on email or the phone.
4) Read and fill out our holding agreement if we are accepting deposits at the time (on our Forms page) Send a deposit check of $300 through the mail, Venmo or Zelle.
5) keep in touch on email or phone about litters and evaluations. Let us help you find the right puppy for your family, lifestyle and circumstances
6) you may come visit the pups at the ranch or pick your puppy up (with a few safety requirements). We also make 1 trip per litter meeting in Colorado.
7) Read, fill out our pet contract and pay the balance due in CASH or Zelle
8) Take your puppy home and give it the BEST LIFE EVER!!! - We are here to help when you need it!
CLICK here to read more about AFTER YOU ADOPT YOUR 74 RANCH PUPPY - Training and more!
1) Read the info on our site - do your research, be sure a Mini Aussie/American is right for you and the timing is right for you (or near future)
2) Fill out our application on this site.
3) Visit with us on email or the phone.
4) Read and fill out our holding agreement if we are accepting deposits at the time (on our Forms page) Send a deposit check of $300 through the mail, Venmo or Zelle.
5) keep in touch on email or phone about litters and evaluations. Let us help you find the right puppy for your family, lifestyle and circumstances
6) you may come visit the pups at the ranch or pick your puppy up (with a few safety requirements). We also make 1 trip per litter meeting in Colorado.
7) Read, fill out our pet contract and pay the balance due in CASH or Zelle
8) Take your puppy home and give it the BEST LIFE EVER!!! - We are here to help when you need it!
CLICK here to read more about AFTER YOU ADOPT YOUR 74 RANCH PUPPY - Training and more!
Adopting a Mini Aussie puppy is a long-term commitment.
Is The Mini Aussie or Mini American the Right Breed For You And Your Family?
(credit: Australian Shepherd Club of America)
Miniature Australian Shepherds are loving and devoted companions to their families but are generally reserved with strangers. This natural reserve means that this is not the dog that will bound up to strangers to be petted, but instead will stand firmly by your side until introductions are made and the Mini Aussie sees that the stranger is acceptable to you. While this trait makes them wonderful guardians of home and family, it does require early socialization with people outside the family. Their intelligence and loving nature make it easy for them to form strong bonds with their family.
The Mini Aussie is a herding dog with strong natural instincts. Unfocused, this herding instinct may be used inappropriately to herd small animals (like cats) and children. Chasing bicyclists, or other fast-moving objects is often appealing to them as well, and should be curbed as a young puppy. A herding dog will often nip at the heels of livestock to get them moving, and many puppies may try this on their humans as well. Teaching the Mini Aussie not to chase, herd or nip at these inappropriate targets will not subdue their natural instinct to herd livestock.
The Mini Aussie is not a "busy" dog that is in constant motion but many are high energy dogs that needs a purpose or a job to do. Basic training in Obedience is strongly recommended as a means to teach dog and owner how to work together. Playing and exercise should be a daily routine with the Mini Aussie. Small jobs around the house, such as picking up the newspaper or finding toys, keep his mind and body challenged,
The Mini Aussie is a fun, intelligent, highly motivated dog with a great sense of humor and play. Bringing a Mini Aussie into your home and family can be a rewarding experience for years to come.
(credit: Australian Shepherd Club of America)
Miniature Australian Shepherds are loving and devoted companions to their families but are generally reserved with strangers. This natural reserve means that this is not the dog that will bound up to strangers to be petted, but instead will stand firmly by your side until introductions are made and the Mini Aussie sees that the stranger is acceptable to you. While this trait makes them wonderful guardians of home and family, it does require early socialization with people outside the family. Their intelligence and loving nature make it easy for them to form strong bonds with their family.
The Mini Aussie is a herding dog with strong natural instincts. Unfocused, this herding instinct may be used inappropriately to herd small animals (like cats) and children. Chasing bicyclists, or other fast-moving objects is often appealing to them as well, and should be curbed as a young puppy. A herding dog will often nip at the heels of livestock to get them moving, and many puppies may try this on their humans as well. Teaching the Mini Aussie not to chase, herd or nip at these inappropriate targets will not subdue their natural instinct to herd livestock.
The Mini Aussie is not a "busy" dog that is in constant motion but many are high energy dogs that needs a purpose or a job to do. Basic training in Obedience is strongly recommended as a means to teach dog and owner how to work together. Playing and exercise should be a daily routine with the Mini Aussie. Small jobs around the house, such as picking up the newspaper or finding toys, keep his mind and body challenged,
The Mini Aussie is a fun, intelligent, highly motivated dog with a great sense of humor and play. Bringing a Mini Aussie into your home and family can be a rewarding experience for years to come.
Mini Aussie Male Or Female? You decide....
We have found that many people want a girl puppy, but listen to what Hogan Kennels says about girls vs. boys. You may change your mind.
"Many people believe that female dogs make better pets...female preference seems to be ingrained in these people. Most calls for pet dogs have people wanting a 'sweet girl'. They don't think females display alpha behaviors like 'marking' and/or 'humping'. They believe that they are more docile and attentive and do not participate in fighting over dominance. This simply is not the case.
In the dog pack makeup, females usually rule the roost, determine pecking order, and who competes to maintain and/or alter that order. The females are, as a result, more independent, stubborn, and territorial than their male counterparts. The females are much more intent upon exercising their dominance by participating in alpha behaviors such as 'humping'. There IS a reason people utilize the technical dog term of 'bitch' in a negative way-and it refers directly to the behaviors exhibited by the females of the dog world. Most fights will usually break out between 2 females. Males, on the other hand, are usually more affectionate, exuberant, attentive, and more demanding of attention. They are very attached to their people. They also tend to be more steadfast, reliable, and less moody. They are more outgoing, more accepting of other pets, and take quicker to children. Most boys are easily motivated by food (how true!!) and praise, and so eager to please that training is easy. However, males can be more easily distracted during training, as males like to play so often. And no matter what age, he is more likely to act silly and more puppy-like, always wanting to play games. Boys are fun loving until the day they die. Females tend to be more reserved or dignified as they age. Witness the human equivalent of the twinkling eyed Grandpa still playing catch at age 70, while Grandma quietly observes from the porch.
Neutered males rarely exhibit secondary sexual behavior such as 'humping', or 'marking' and lifting of legs. Once the testosterone levels recede after neutering, most of these behaviors (if they ever existed) will disappear. Boys who were neutered early (by 5 months of age) usually don't ever raise their leg to urinate BUT it is no longer recommended to neuter a male puppy before they are a year or older. Please do your research.
And while the female will usually come to you for attention, when she's had enough, she will move away, while boys are always waiting for your attention and near at hand. Females are usually less distracted during training, as she is more eager to get it over with, and get back to her comfy spot on the couch. The female is less likely to wage a dominance battle with YOU, but she can be cunning and resourceful in getting her own way. She is much more prone to mood swings. One day she may be sweet and affectionate-the next day reserved and withdrawn or even grumpy. The female also has periods of being 'in heat' unless she is spayed. Seasonal heats can be a month long nightmare-not just for the female, but you and every male dog in the neighborhood. If you are not breeding, you'd be best off to have her spayed. Since during this time she can leave a bloody discharge on carpets, couches, or anywhere she goes. She will be particularly moody and emotional during this time. A walk outside during this period can become hazardous if male dogs are in the vicinity, and she will leave a 'scent' for wandering intact males to follow right to your yard, where they will hang out, and 'wait' for days.
Before deciding on male or female, give consideration to any other dogs that may be in or around your home."
We have found that many people want a girl puppy, but listen to what Hogan Kennels says about girls vs. boys. You may change your mind.
"Many people believe that female dogs make better pets...female preference seems to be ingrained in these people. Most calls for pet dogs have people wanting a 'sweet girl'. They don't think females display alpha behaviors like 'marking' and/or 'humping'. They believe that they are more docile and attentive and do not participate in fighting over dominance. This simply is not the case.
In the dog pack makeup, females usually rule the roost, determine pecking order, and who competes to maintain and/or alter that order. The females are, as a result, more independent, stubborn, and territorial than their male counterparts. The females are much more intent upon exercising their dominance by participating in alpha behaviors such as 'humping'. There IS a reason people utilize the technical dog term of 'bitch' in a negative way-and it refers directly to the behaviors exhibited by the females of the dog world. Most fights will usually break out between 2 females. Males, on the other hand, are usually more affectionate, exuberant, attentive, and more demanding of attention. They are very attached to their people. They also tend to be more steadfast, reliable, and less moody. They are more outgoing, more accepting of other pets, and take quicker to children. Most boys are easily motivated by food (how true!!) and praise, and so eager to please that training is easy. However, males can be more easily distracted during training, as males like to play so often. And no matter what age, he is more likely to act silly and more puppy-like, always wanting to play games. Boys are fun loving until the day they die. Females tend to be more reserved or dignified as they age. Witness the human equivalent of the twinkling eyed Grandpa still playing catch at age 70, while Grandma quietly observes from the porch.
Neutered males rarely exhibit secondary sexual behavior such as 'humping', or 'marking' and lifting of legs. Once the testosterone levels recede after neutering, most of these behaviors (if they ever existed) will disappear. Boys who were neutered early (by 5 months of age) usually don't ever raise their leg to urinate BUT it is no longer recommended to neuter a male puppy before they are a year or older. Please do your research.
And while the female will usually come to you for attention, when she's had enough, she will move away, while boys are always waiting for your attention and near at hand. Females are usually less distracted during training, as she is more eager to get it over with, and get back to her comfy spot on the couch. The female is less likely to wage a dominance battle with YOU, but she can be cunning and resourceful in getting her own way. She is much more prone to mood swings. One day she may be sweet and affectionate-the next day reserved and withdrawn or even grumpy. The female also has periods of being 'in heat' unless she is spayed. Seasonal heats can be a month long nightmare-not just for the female, but you and every male dog in the neighborhood. If you are not breeding, you'd be best off to have her spayed. Since during this time she can leave a bloody discharge on carpets, couches, or anywhere she goes. She will be particularly moody and emotional during this time. A walk outside during this period can become hazardous if male dogs are in the vicinity, and she will leave a 'scent' for wandering intact males to follow right to your yard, where they will hang out, and 'wait' for days.
Before deciding on male or female, give consideration to any other dogs that may be in or around your home."
Only Adopt A Mini Aussie From A Reputable Breeder!
While you are seeking your new puppy PLEASE do NOT purchase a puppy from a pet store, in front of the local department store, or from a breeder who cannot/will not give you proof of all the parent's genetic testing. Never feel pressured to buy from a breeder, be willing to get out if you get uncomfortable for any reason. Mini Aussies are a popular breed and this attracts back yard breeders as well as puppy mills. Buying from these irresponsible breeders will only encourage the bad conditions they may have to live in. Ask the breeder many questions and be sure they are involved in their breed club. Do not buy from breeders who are breeding just for money or to "fill a need" in the area. Only buy from those who are seriously bettering the breed, and who will stand behind the puppies they sell. You will often pay nearly the same price to buy a puppy from a pet store or back yard breeder, and you will know nothing of the parents; potential health issues, personality issues, etc. If people stop buying from them, they will stop selling them! (see Why The Difference In Puppy Prices?)
Keeping a group of dogs looking and acting like their breed is hard, HARD work.
74 Ranch is a reputable and responsible breeder, a MASCA Hall of Fame breeder and AKC Bred with Heart!
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
"But I don't want a show dog; I just want a pet"
(courtesy Joanna Kimball, July 13, 2010)
This is one of the most pervasive sentiments that puppy buyers, especially families, express when they're looking for a dog. What they really mean, of course, is that they don't want a show BREEDER – don't want to pay the high price they think show breeders charge, don't want to go through the often-invasive interview process, and think that they're getting a better deal or a real bargain because they can get a Lab for $300 or a Shepherd for $150.
I want you to change your mind. I want you to not only realize the benefits of buying a show-bred dog, I want you to INSIST on a show-bred dog. And I want you to realize that the cheap dog is really the one that's the rip-off. And then I want you to go be obnoxious and, when your workmate says she's getting a puppy because her neighbor, who raises them, will give her one for free, or when your brother-in-law announces that they're buying a goldendoodle for the kids, I want you to launch yourself into their solar plexus and steal their wallets and their car keys.
Here's why:
If I ask you why you want a Maltese, or a Lab, or a Leonberger, or a Cardigan, I would bet you're not going to talk about how much you like their color. You're going to tell me things about personality, ability (to perform a specific task), relationships with other animals or humans, size, coat, temperament, and so on. You'll describe playing ball, or how affectionate you've heard that they are, or how well they get along with kids.
The things you will be looking for aren't the things that describe just "dog"; they'll be the things that make this particular breed unique and unlike other breeds.
That's where people have made the right initial decision – they've taken the time and made the effort to understand that there are differences between breeds and that they should get one that at least comes close to matching their picture of what they want a dog to be.
Their next step, tragically, is that they go out and find a dog of that breed for as little money and with as much ease as possible.
You need to realize that when you do this, you're going to the used car dealership, WATCHING them pry the "Audi" plate off a new car, observing them as they use Bondo to stick it on a '98 Corolla, and then writing them a check and feeling smug that you got an Audi for so little.
It is no bargain.
Those things that distinguish the breed you want from the generic world of "dog" are only there because somebody worked really hard to get them there. And as soon as that work ceases, the dog, no matter how purebred, begins to revert to the generic. That doesn't mean you won't get a good dog – the magic and the blessing of dogs is that they are so hard to mess up, in their good souls and minds, that even the most hideously bred one can still be a great dog – but it will not be a good Shepherd, or good Puli, or a good Cardigan. You will not get the specialized abilities, tendencies, or talents of the breed.
If you don't NEED those special abilities or the predictability of a particular breed, you should not be buying a dog at all. You should go rescue one. That way you're saving a life and not putting money in pockets where it does not belong.
If you want a purebred and you know that a rescue is not going to fit the bill, the absolute WORST thing you can do is assume that a name equals anything. They really are nothing more than name plates on cars. What matters is whether the engineering and design and service department back up the name plate, so you have some expectation that you're walking away with more than a label.
Keeping a group of dogs looking and acting like their breed is hard, HARD work. If you do not get the impression that the breeder you're considering is working that hard, is that dedicated to the breed, is struggling to produce dogs that are more than a breed name, you are getting no bargain; you are only getting ripped off!
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
What Mini Aussies Enjoy:
Agility: A great mental and physical activity for both dog and handler. Dog needs to be sound and have a great temperament to handle the arousal. WE evaluate for agility prospects if that's what you are hoping for. NADAC, USDAA, ASCA, AKC all have agility trials
Acrobatics/dancing: So much fun!!! You just dance with your dog, much like heeling and dancing at the same time with tricks thrown in.
Rally: Rally is like obedience except you can talk to your dog, encourage them to do things, praise them while doing the course with signs. This is an awesome event. At WOWMASC shows you can be in all levels at once should you choose to do so. AKC, UKC and ASCA all offer rally.
Nose work: A newer dog sport but one they love! Do for fun around the house or in competition. What more would a dog want to do than search for things with their nose, especially treats! Enjoy playing 'hide or seek' with your furry friend!
Treiball - herding without stock. They are taught to push a ball around with their muzzle or nose to a goal area.
Herding: of course, our breed is a Herding Breed. Most of them love to work stock - goats, sheep, ducks, you name it. You can do for fun/mental exercise or compete with AHBA, ASCA, or even AKC.
Disc Dog: Mini Aussies love the frisbee! There are many clubs around the country to get involved with.
FlyBall: A relay game consisting of hurdles and fetching with a team, Aussies are well-suited for this sport.
Therapy: Many Aussies have a temperament that will work great for therapy. They are happy to be loved and petted at hospitals and care facilities around the country. A warm lick never hurt anyone either, right?
Barn Hunt: Finding rats hidden in hay bales - wow, what a great game for an Aussie! There are barnhunt trials all over the U.S.
Lure Coursing: Aussies love testing their instincts as much as sighthounds do!
Tricks: Do More With Your Dogs - you can even get certification for doing tricks with your dogs! Now AKC is offering Trick Dog titles.
Obedience: who doesn't love an obedient dog??? AKC and UKC do obedience trials in their shows as well as WOWMASC who does shows in Cheyenne WY a few times a year that include obedience, be sure to watch the website for updates www.WOWMASC.com
Hiking/Camping: Mini Aussies make great partners for hiking, biking, jogging, walking, horseback riding and camping! Mini Aussies love being with their 'people' !!!
FastCat: Coursing Ability Test – is a timed 100-yard dash where dogs run one at a time, chasing a lure. It’s over before you know it — and it’s nothing short of awe-inspiring to watch your dog run at top speed, ears back, eyes focused, legs strong
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
More than anything else - keep them busy mentally and physically for a Long, Active, Healthy Life!
While you are seeking your new puppy PLEASE do NOT purchase a puppy from a pet store, in front of the local department store, or from a breeder who cannot/will not give you proof of all the parent's genetic testing. Never feel pressured to buy from a breeder, be willing to get out if you get uncomfortable for any reason. Mini Aussies are a popular breed and this attracts back yard breeders as well as puppy mills. Buying from these irresponsible breeders will only encourage the bad conditions they may have to live in. Ask the breeder many questions and be sure they are involved in their breed club. Do not buy from breeders who are breeding just for money or to "fill a need" in the area. Only buy from those who are seriously bettering the breed, and who will stand behind the puppies they sell. You will often pay nearly the same price to buy a puppy from a pet store or back yard breeder, and you will know nothing of the parents; potential health issues, personality issues, etc. If people stop buying from them, they will stop selling them! (see Why The Difference In Puppy Prices?)
Keeping a group of dogs looking and acting like their breed is hard, HARD work.
74 Ranch is a reputable and responsible breeder, a MASCA Hall of Fame breeder and AKC Bred with Heart!
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
"But I don't want a show dog; I just want a pet"
(courtesy Joanna Kimball, July 13, 2010)
This is one of the most pervasive sentiments that puppy buyers, especially families, express when they're looking for a dog. What they really mean, of course, is that they don't want a show BREEDER – don't want to pay the high price they think show breeders charge, don't want to go through the often-invasive interview process, and think that they're getting a better deal or a real bargain because they can get a Lab for $300 or a Shepherd for $150.
I want you to change your mind. I want you to not only realize the benefits of buying a show-bred dog, I want you to INSIST on a show-bred dog. And I want you to realize that the cheap dog is really the one that's the rip-off. And then I want you to go be obnoxious and, when your workmate says she's getting a puppy because her neighbor, who raises them, will give her one for free, or when your brother-in-law announces that they're buying a goldendoodle for the kids, I want you to launch yourself into their solar plexus and steal their wallets and their car keys.
Here's why:
If I ask you why you want a Maltese, or a Lab, or a Leonberger, or a Cardigan, I would bet you're not going to talk about how much you like their color. You're going to tell me things about personality, ability (to perform a specific task), relationships with other animals or humans, size, coat, temperament, and so on. You'll describe playing ball, or how affectionate you've heard that they are, or how well they get along with kids.
The things you will be looking for aren't the things that describe just "dog"; they'll be the things that make this particular breed unique and unlike other breeds.
That's where people have made the right initial decision – they've taken the time and made the effort to understand that there are differences between breeds and that they should get one that at least comes close to matching their picture of what they want a dog to be.
Their next step, tragically, is that they go out and find a dog of that breed for as little money and with as much ease as possible.
You need to realize that when you do this, you're going to the used car dealership, WATCHING them pry the "Audi" plate off a new car, observing them as they use Bondo to stick it on a '98 Corolla, and then writing them a check and feeling smug that you got an Audi for so little.
It is no bargain.
Those things that distinguish the breed you want from the generic world of "dog" are only there because somebody worked really hard to get them there. And as soon as that work ceases, the dog, no matter how purebred, begins to revert to the generic. That doesn't mean you won't get a good dog – the magic and the blessing of dogs is that they are so hard to mess up, in their good souls and minds, that even the most hideously bred one can still be a great dog – but it will not be a good Shepherd, or good Puli, or a good Cardigan. You will not get the specialized abilities, tendencies, or talents of the breed.
If you don't NEED those special abilities or the predictability of a particular breed, you should not be buying a dog at all. You should go rescue one. That way you're saving a life and not putting money in pockets where it does not belong.
If you want a purebred and you know that a rescue is not going to fit the bill, the absolute WORST thing you can do is assume that a name equals anything. They really are nothing more than name plates on cars. What matters is whether the engineering and design and service department back up the name plate, so you have some expectation that you're walking away with more than a label.
Keeping a group of dogs looking and acting like their breed is hard, HARD work. If you do not get the impression that the breeder you're considering is working that hard, is that dedicated to the breed, is struggling to produce dogs that are more than a breed name, you are getting no bargain; you are only getting ripped off!
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
What Mini Aussies Enjoy:
Agility: A great mental and physical activity for both dog and handler. Dog needs to be sound and have a great temperament to handle the arousal. WE evaluate for agility prospects if that's what you are hoping for. NADAC, USDAA, ASCA, AKC all have agility trials
Acrobatics/dancing: So much fun!!! You just dance with your dog, much like heeling and dancing at the same time with tricks thrown in.
Rally: Rally is like obedience except you can talk to your dog, encourage them to do things, praise them while doing the course with signs. This is an awesome event. At WOWMASC shows you can be in all levels at once should you choose to do so. AKC, UKC and ASCA all offer rally.
Nose work: A newer dog sport but one they love! Do for fun around the house or in competition. What more would a dog want to do than search for things with their nose, especially treats! Enjoy playing 'hide or seek' with your furry friend!
Treiball - herding without stock. They are taught to push a ball around with their muzzle or nose to a goal area.
Herding: of course, our breed is a Herding Breed. Most of them love to work stock - goats, sheep, ducks, you name it. You can do for fun/mental exercise or compete with AHBA, ASCA, or even AKC.
Disc Dog: Mini Aussies love the frisbee! There are many clubs around the country to get involved with.
FlyBall: A relay game consisting of hurdles and fetching with a team, Aussies are well-suited for this sport.
Therapy: Many Aussies have a temperament that will work great for therapy. They are happy to be loved and petted at hospitals and care facilities around the country. A warm lick never hurt anyone either, right?
Barn Hunt: Finding rats hidden in hay bales - wow, what a great game for an Aussie! There are barnhunt trials all over the U.S.
Lure Coursing: Aussies love testing their instincts as much as sighthounds do!
Tricks: Do More With Your Dogs - you can even get certification for doing tricks with your dogs! Now AKC is offering Trick Dog titles.
Obedience: who doesn't love an obedient dog??? AKC and UKC do obedience trials in their shows as well as WOWMASC who does shows in Cheyenne WY a few times a year that include obedience, be sure to watch the website for updates www.WOWMASC.com
Hiking/Camping: Mini Aussies make great partners for hiking, biking, jogging, walking, horseback riding and camping! Mini Aussies love being with their 'people' !!!
FastCat: Coursing Ability Test – is a timed 100-yard dash where dogs run one at a time, chasing a lure. It’s over before you know it — and it’s nothing short of awe-inspiring to watch your dog run at top speed, ears back, eyes focused, legs strong
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
More than anything else - keep them busy mentally and physically for a Long, Active, Healthy Life!
Puppy Proof your Home
1. Secure electrical cords to baseboards or make them inaccessible. Apply dishsoap to any cord visible, puppies don't like the taste.
2. Never allow burning candles to be accessible to pups, the flame attracts them
3. Keep medications away from puppies - childproof containers are not enough.
4. Keep the toilet lid down.
5. Keep cellar doors, staircase doors, and upper story windows closed to curious puppies.
6. Dispose of chicken or turkey bones. Puppies will search the trash for them.
7. Don't leave needles or pins out where puppy can get to them, they may swallow them.
8. ABSOLUTELY KEEP ANTI-FREEZE away from puppies/dogs and use pesticides with caution (fly strips, cleaners, etc.)
9. Keep puppies away from toxic plants.
10. Do not use flea collars or dips until after 4 months old, or older if your vet recommends it. Never give medications containing IVERMECTIN
11. Sit down with family and discuss how to handle the puppy in a safe manner, discuss each person's responsibilities with the puppy as well as how to raise and train the puppy consistently - all on the "same page". Puppy will begin to develop a bond with your family very quickly. There will be time for adjustment, however, for your family and the puppy. Please call or email us if you have questions.
1. Secure electrical cords to baseboards or make them inaccessible. Apply dishsoap to any cord visible, puppies don't like the taste.
2. Never allow burning candles to be accessible to pups, the flame attracts them
3. Keep medications away from puppies - childproof containers are not enough.
4. Keep the toilet lid down.
5. Keep cellar doors, staircase doors, and upper story windows closed to curious puppies.
6. Dispose of chicken or turkey bones. Puppies will search the trash for them.
7. Don't leave needles or pins out where puppy can get to them, they may swallow them.
8. ABSOLUTELY KEEP ANTI-FREEZE away from puppies/dogs and use pesticides with caution (fly strips, cleaners, etc.)
9. Keep puppies away from toxic plants.
10. Do not use flea collars or dips until after 4 months old, or older if your vet recommends it. Never give medications containing IVERMECTIN
11. Sit down with family and discuss how to handle the puppy in a safe manner, discuss each person's responsibilities with the puppy as well as how to raise and train the puppy consistently - all on the "same page". Puppy will begin to develop a bond with your family very quickly. There will be time for adjustment, however, for your family and the puppy. Please call or email us if you have questions.
Give your dog a head start on a happy life by making his first day a great one.
Your Mini Aussie Puppy's First Day
Give your dog a head start on a happy life by making his first day a great one. Your puppy's first day in your home is one of the most important times in his young life. Try to make it one of his best days.
It's very important for your dog to be wearing an ID tag from the first day he is at your home. Before you bring your new dog or puppy home, have the tag ready for him. If you haven't chosen a name for your dog yet, just put your address and phone number on it.
The first thing you are going to want to do is hold your puppy. You might want to hold him all the time. But it is very important for your puppy to have a chance to meet the other people in your family. He also needs to explore his new home. Holding your puppy is important so he learns to love you, but on the first day, hold him only a few minutes at a time.
You should get your house ready before your pup comes home. Puppy-proofing your house will keep your new pup safe from danger.
Puppy-proof your house:
Have a couple of toys ready for your dog to play with. He may not want to play the first day, but they will be there if he does.
Have a place for your dog to sleep. A crate makes a great bed. When your puppy is resting, he can be in a private place where no one will bother him. If you don't have a crate, put his bed somewhere that is cozy, comfortable, and private for him.
Your pup will probably need to go to the bathroom soon after he arrives. It would be a good idea to take him outside before he begins to explore your home. Praise him when he goes.
Give your new dog time to explore your house, but don't leave him alone. You can stand behind him and follow him to the places he wants to go. Be very gentle. Only hold him a little bit.
Joining the Family
The best place for your new dog to meet your other dog for the first time is outside--in your yard (fenced) or in a park (on a leash). When they are comfortable with each other, bring them indoors.
Quiet, please! Your puppy will do better if your house is quiet. Loud noises may scare him. Later, when he is used to your house, you can introduce new sounds slowly.
Give your pup some water right away if he's thirsty. Wait and give your dog some food after he has been home for a while and is feeling more comfortable. Don't forget to let him outside every time he drinks or eats.
It is very important to know what Humane means: Humane means acting kind, gentle, and generous toward your pets. Your new puppy needs to feel safe at all times. You can help him to feel that way by being humane to him.
TIP: Don't start any training on this first day. This is your pup's day to meet everyone.
It might be very tempting to take your dog out and show him off to your friends, but you need to wait a few weeks. First, let your pup get comfortable at home and with everyone that lives in your house. Then, after your pup has had it's shots to protect him from illness, take him out for short walks not very far from your house. Always remember to tell your pup he is doing a great job.
Make sure kids aren't teasing or tormenting the puppy. Always supervise them. Don't let the puppy have bones with a young child in the room just in case. When the puppy has had enough be sure he has his own 'space' to rest.
PUPPY DON'TS
Be sure to read about the drug sensitivity Mini Aussies can have. Although most of our pups are N/N for the MDR1 gene, it's recommended to treat them as if they are susceptible to drug sensitivities.
It is very important to know what humane means. Humane means acting kind, gentle, and generous toward your pets. Your puppy needs to feel safe at all times. You can help him to feel that way by being humane to him.
Give your dog a head start on a happy life by making his first day a great one. Your puppy's first day in your home is one of the most important times in his young life. Try to make it one of his best days.
It's very important for your dog to be wearing an ID tag from the first day he is at your home. Before you bring your new dog or puppy home, have the tag ready for him. If you haven't chosen a name for your dog yet, just put your address and phone number on it.
The first thing you are going to want to do is hold your puppy. You might want to hold him all the time. But it is very important for your puppy to have a chance to meet the other people in your family. He also needs to explore his new home. Holding your puppy is important so he learns to love you, but on the first day, hold him only a few minutes at a time.
You should get your house ready before your pup comes home. Puppy-proofing your house will keep your new pup safe from danger.
Puppy-proof your house:
- 1. Make sure cords and wires are not where your dog can reach them.
- 2. Place trash in cupboards or have your parents get trash cans with lids.
- 3. Ask your folks to remove dangerous liquids, like cleaners and antifreeze.
- 4. Clear off tables that your pup might reach.
Have a couple of toys ready for your dog to play with. He may not want to play the first day, but they will be there if he does.
Have a place for your dog to sleep. A crate makes a great bed. When your puppy is resting, he can be in a private place where no one will bother him. If you don't have a crate, put his bed somewhere that is cozy, comfortable, and private for him.
Your pup will probably need to go to the bathroom soon after he arrives. It would be a good idea to take him outside before he begins to explore your home. Praise him when he goes.
Give your new dog time to explore your house, but don't leave him alone. You can stand behind him and follow him to the places he wants to go. Be very gentle. Only hold him a little bit.
Joining the Family
The best place for your new dog to meet your other dog for the first time is outside--in your yard (fenced) or in a park (on a leash). When they are comfortable with each other, bring them indoors.
Quiet, please! Your puppy will do better if your house is quiet. Loud noises may scare him. Later, when he is used to your house, you can introduce new sounds slowly.
Give your pup some water right away if he's thirsty. Wait and give your dog some food after he has been home for a while and is feeling more comfortable. Don't forget to let him outside every time he drinks or eats.
It is very important to know what Humane means: Humane means acting kind, gentle, and generous toward your pets. Your new puppy needs to feel safe at all times. You can help him to feel that way by being humane to him.
TIP: Don't start any training on this first day. This is your pup's day to meet everyone.
It might be very tempting to take your dog out and show him off to your friends, but you need to wait a few weeks. First, let your pup get comfortable at home and with everyone that lives in your house. Then, after your pup has had it's shots to protect him from illness, take him out for short walks not very far from your house. Always remember to tell your pup he is doing a great job.
Make sure kids aren't teasing or tormenting the puppy. Always supervise them. Don't let the puppy have bones with a young child in the room just in case. When the puppy has had enough be sure he has his own 'space' to rest.
PUPPY DON'TS
- Don't put your puppy on the ground where unknown animals have been until he's had all his puppy shots. This is how he picks up diseases.
- Don't allow your puppy to become unnecessarily frightened in his first few months of life. Introduce loud noises (vacuum cleaners, hair driers, etc.) carefully and slowly. Lifetime phobias for your puppy are imprinted during these early months.
- Don't overtax your new puppy. He needs lots of sleep and tires quickly. Be aware of signs of hypoglycemia in small puppies.
- Don't allow your puppy around dogs you don't know to be safe and friendly or around rough children. Your puppy is breakable.
- Don't ignore your puppy's whining when confined in his crate. Take him out to potty, even if it hasn't been long since his last visit outside and you suspect he just wants attention. If he goes to the bathroom, praise him and allow him to remain out of his crate for a while. If he doesn't, return him to the crate. However, don't reward your puppy for whining by taking him out of his crate just to play or cuddle. Wait until he's quiet--then take him out!
- Don't allow your puppy to expect to always be held or played with. Accustom your puppy to quiet times and being alone for short periods of time. This will prevent separation anxiety later. Don't allow the puppy to beg.
- Don't allow your puppy to feel abandoned by leaving him unattended for long periods of time. Know that love and attention are just as important as food and air to an animal who was born to be a companion to his master.
- Don't forget to praise your puppy. Praise is a stronger motivator than harsh words or discipline for a puppy who lives to please.
Be sure to read about the drug sensitivity Mini Aussies can have. Although most of our pups are N/N for the MDR1 gene, it's recommended to treat them as if they are susceptible to drug sensitivities.
It is very important to know what humane means. Humane means acting kind, gentle, and generous toward your pets. Your puppy needs to feel safe at all times. You can help him to feel that way by being humane to him.
Do you live in an apartment or townhouse? If so, do your research first to be sure you can handle a puppy and the landlord will allow it.
Be realistic There are some breeds and temperaments of dogs that are not well-suited to apartment life. Dogs that are very high energy, such as a Labrador or Border collie, may really struggle being confined to a small space. Often the frustration of being cooped up and bored translates into destructive behaviors like chewing.
Especially large breeds won’t fit well in tiny spaces, either. Take an honest look at your main living areas and map out space for a kennel, dog bed, food dishes and toys. You may discover you’ll be better off with a 20-lb. mutt than the Chesapeake Bay retriever you’ve always wanted.
Then follow these tips:
Crate train your puppy as soon as he comes home (ours are already crate trained before you get them). Line the bottom of the crate with a fluffy dog bed, and put the crate in your bedroom. Set the puppy in the crate at bedtime and close the door. He may whine and cry for a few nights, but soon he will learn the crate is his own safe, quiet sleeping space.
Provide the puppy with a number of different puppy toys. Apartment dogs often resort to destructive behaviors due to boredom, and numerous toys will keep him busy.
Take the puppy outside for frequent bathroom breaks. Puppies have weak bladders and should go out at least once an hour to prevent accidents. Place the puppy in a grassy area out of the way of foot traffic, and keep him on a leash at all times. Be courteous to your neighbors and pick up solid waste immediately.
Exercise the puppy in short sessions during the day. Puppies are extremely energetic, and frequent play sessions stimulate the puppy and keep his mind and body busy. Take the puppy on short walks, throw his favorite toy and let him run in an enclosed area to burn off excess energy.
Be realistic There are some breeds and temperaments of dogs that are not well-suited to apartment life. Dogs that are very high energy, such as a Labrador or Border collie, may really struggle being confined to a small space. Often the frustration of being cooped up and bored translates into destructive behaviors like chewing.
Especially large breeds won’t fit well in tiny spaces, either. Take an honest look at your main living areas and map out space for a kennel, dog bed, food dishes and toys. You may discover you’ll be better off with a 20-lb. mutt than the Chesapeake Bay retriever you’ve always wanted.
Then follow these tips:
Crate train your puppy as soon as he comes home (ours are already crate trained before you get them). Line the bottom of the crate with a fluffy dog bed, and put the crate in your bedroom. Set the puppy in the crate at bedtime and close the door. He may whine and cry for a few nights, but soon he will learn the crate is his own safe, quiet sleeping space.
Provide the puppy with a number of different puppy toys. Apartment dogs often resort to destructive behaviors due to boredom, and numerous toys will keep him busy.
Take the puppy outside for frequent bathroom breaks. Puppies have weak bladders and should go out at least once an hour to prevent accidents. Place the puppy in a grassy area out of the way of foot traffic, and keep him on a leash at all times. Be courteous to your neighbors and pick up solid waste immediately.
Exercise the puppy in short sessions during the day. Puppies are extremely energetic, and frequent play sessions stimulate the puppy and keep his mind and body busy. Take the puppy on short walks, throw his favorite toy and let him run in an enclosed area to burn off excess energy.
Things to purchase Before taking puppy home:
We supply leash and collar, microchip, food, bones and toys (but you may want more).
You will want to purchase:
CRATE - medium size should work for their whole life
DVD's we recommend: Puppy Culture (click below), Books/DVD's by Ian Dunbar, Suzanne Clothier, Patricia McConnell and Karen Pryor
How of Bow Wow and Bow Wow Take 2 and ones for teaching tricks and 97 Ways to Create a Great Puppy
BOOKS: The Perfect Dog, Karen Becker; Perfect puppy in 7 days, Dr Sophia Lin; Clicker training books
Food Puzzle or toy (Instead of a bowl) and water bowl - non chewable, preferably Stainless Steel or glass water bowl.
Toys (and chewtoys) and bones - especially get a Kong and fill it then freeze it. Rope toys are great too. Toys from CleanRun. Waterbottle toys.
Dog food: Nutrisource Puppy Chicken and Darwins Raw is what the pups are on at our house. We also recommend Wysong, Nature's Logic, Darwins Frozen Raw (they ship), OC Raw, Steve's Real Pet Food, Aunt Jeni's Raw, Small Batch raw or Happee Dawg all as our foods of choice.
Freeze dried liver treats or tripe treats for strangers when they meet the puppies
ID tag for collar. Martingale collars are great as the puppy grows up (we supply a collar/leash at 8 weeks)
Bed: Kozee/Kuranda
X pen or baby gates to keep them enclosed in a certain area
For teething: Yup 1/2 bone; nylabone or gummy, marrow/shin bones/beef rib bones (freeze then thaw a little).
**Puppies come with leash, collar, toy, ball, bones, ziplock bag of food, packet of info/health record, 7 days supply Immune builder and microchip **
We supply leash and collar, microchip, food, bones and toys (but you may want more).
You will want to purchase:
CRATE - medium size should work for their whole life
DVD's we recommend: Puppy Culture (click below), Books/DVD's by Ian Dunbar, Suzanne Clothier, Patricia McConnell and Karen Pryor
How of Bow Wow and Bow Wow Take 2 and ones for teaching tricks and 97 Ways to Create a Great Puppy
BOOKS: The Perfect Dog, Karen Becker; Perfect puppy in 7 days, Dr Sophia Lin; Clicker training books
Food Puzzle or toy (Instead of a bowl) and water bowl - non chewable, preferably Stainless Steel or glass water bowl.
Toys (and chewtoys) and bones - especially get a Kong and fill it then freeze it. Rope toys are great too. Toys from CleanRun. Waterbottle toys.
Dog food: Nutrisource Puppy Chicken and Darwins Raw is what the pups are on at our house. We also recommend Wysong, Nature's Logic, Darwins Frozen Raw (they ship), OC Raw, Steve's Real Pet Food, Aunt Jeni's Raw, Small Batch raw or Happee Dawg all as our foods of choice.
Freeze dried liver treats or tripe treats for strangers when they meet the puppies
ID tag for collar. Martingale collars are great as the puppy grows up (we supply a collar/leash at 8 weeks)
Bed: Kozee/Kuranda
X pen or baby gates to keep them enclosed in a certain area
For teething: Yup 1/2 bone; nylabone or gummy, marrow/shin bones/beef rib bones (freeze then thaw a little).
**Puppies come with leash, collar, toy, ball, bones, ziplock bag of food, packet of info/health record, 7 days supply Immune builder and microchip **
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ASDR, American Stock Dog Registry, MASCA, Miniature Australian Shepherd Club, MASCUSA, IMASC, IHDA, International Herding Dog Association, ASA, Australian Shepherd Association, Mini Americans, AKC, MAS, Miniature American Shepherds